Day 50-70 - Port Stephens and Broughton Island

Saturday 1st

It was really rolly at Shoal Bay. The swell comes straight through the heads and wraps around into the bay where we were.

We generally have a “rest day” after a big day sailing, which is code for “not getting off the boat and watching iPads”.

However, it got too much for us so we motored around the corner to Salamander Bay which offers must better protection from the swell, and pretty much any conditions from NE through SW.

There was one public mooring with a boat on it (who more or less remained on it for the entire duration of our stay at Port Stephens!) so down with the anchor.

There are quite a few weed/kelp spots on the bottom, so it took us a few attempts to set the anchor and have it hold. We’d end up putting anywhere between 40-50m of chain out for the 8m depth.

Didn’t get off the boat.

Sunday 2nd

With “rest day” over it was time to go do something. Kristie had seen the Camel rides over and Anna Bay, so we geared up for that (after a slow morning).

We took the tender in to “Roy Wood Reserve” and chained it up to a tree.

We ordered an Uber, or at least we tried to. Took a few attempts and about 20min to finally get one! The driver informed us he was probably the only one working on Sunday mornings :(

We queued up for the Camels. After watching a few loads head out Kristie and I decided we didn’t need to pay the $40 to sit on a Camel and do a 15min walk (I’d done a multi day camel tour in Egypt, and Kristie had been on them before as well).
We walked alongside the train and took photos instead.

They push the groups through quickly.. 20min rides

Emma was a bit apprehensive to start with, but by the end enjoyed it

With the ride done it was time to get an Uber back to BCF/Bunnings for some supplies.
We all had a sausage & drink and a good chat with a local couple; he was 91 and still in good shape - though he gave up climbing Tomaree Mountain when he was 81!

With shopping done it was time for an Uber… or not. We tried and waited a long time before giving up and getting a taxi.. at least 50% more expensive :(

Back to the tender and Lazuli.

The following is Emma’s recount of the Camel riding:
(These recounts are writing as part of her schoolwork)

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On Sunday we went camel riding!
We lined up in the hot sun waiting for our helmets, it felt like two hours!
After we got our helmets we got into a different line but this time it was very short.
Eventually we got on our camels.
We had to hold on tight and lean back because the camel felt like a seesaw when it stood up.
All of the camels started to walk.
It felt like they were dancing when they were walking!
The camels took us along the small sand dunes then in small waves on the beach!
It was scary and exciting the same time!

Monday 3rd

School in the morning, then up with the anchor and back across to Shoal Bay.

Today’s mission was to climb Tomaree Mountain, and Shoal Bay is the best place to start (for those without a car!).

Locking the tender up and setting off for the hike

The walk to the top is short and steep, from sea level to about 150m quite quickly. Emma found a few seats to use on the way up.

Good views of Port Stephens on the way up and back

Good views from the top, and nice to get into the breeze as it was a bit hot.

We never made it to Fingal Bay - which you can see top right

Quicker on the way down!

The reward for the climb was an ice cream. We’d had to walk past 3 shops on the way to start the walk so we knew what we were coming back for :)

Good reward for the walk

We enjoyed those, then back to the local IGA at Shoal Bay for some supplies.

With some strong winds coming we decided to head across to Fame Cove as it offers protection from everything other than SW-W.

5 moorings but all were full or two shallow for us

We tried our luck at fishing, but only small silver fish took the lures/bait.

Still doing a great job of catching nothing to eat

The following is Emma’s recount of the walk up Tomaree Mountain:

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On Monday we climbed up Tomaree head.
At first I didn't want to go but I was forced to.
The walk was up a mountain but there was chairs to rest on.
There was more than 400 steps on the way up.
When we eventually got up there, there was cool breeze and a great view.
Below us we could see big sandy beaches.
I was glad I went up!

Tuesday 4th

School and work today.

You can’t get off at Fame Cove, so there’s nothing to do other than stay on your boat, or go fishing.

So after a full day work I hopped in the tender and tried to do some more fishing. No luck again.

However, Kristie managed to hook 4 (one fell off so would have been 5) in one go with the whiting jigs.

Wednesday 5th

School and work in the morning, then over to Dutchmans (Dutchies) beach and picked up the (only) mooring there.

This is a much nicer beach to swim at, and also has showers to freshen up before getting back on Lazuli.

Afternoon swim.

Thursday 6th

Morning of usual jobs, then the afternoon at the beach.

Kristie took the SUP out and spotted a few dolphins up close.

Kristie enjoyed SUP'ing with the Dolphins!

The following is Emma’s information report on Dolphins:

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Appearance:
Dolphins have smooth black, grey and white skin.
Dolphins have two flippers their side and a fin on its back.
Dolphins have a blowhole on the top of their head.

Habitat:
Dolphins live throughout the world, in bodies of salt or freshwater!

Diet:
Dolphins eat fish, squid, jellyfish and octopus. They eat different things depending on where they live.

Interesting Facts:
A pod of dolphins sometimes has a thousand individuals.
Dolphins can help other injured ones by pushing them to the surface so they can breath!

Friday 7th

With the northerly (NE) winds we could get across to Jimmy’s Beach, and then try and walk up Yacaaba Head.

It’s a shallow bay, so we had to anchor quite a ways out. Which meant a long tender ride into the beach against the small chop.

We got quite close to the headland. There were a few other 4wd families on the beach, and a boat load of kite surfers having fun.

View looking West along Jimmy's Beach

We got to the start of the track to discover we could only walk half way up as the top section was closed.

Start of the walk up.. to halfway

We all eventually made it to the lookout halfway for some good views and a snack break.

Good views from the stop

Back down and a swim at the beach. We found one or two Port Jackson Shark eggs washed up on the beach:

We found quite a few of these along the beach and also at Broughton

Lovely place to be!

How good!

Good entertainment watching the kite sufters, wind surfers, and the wing foiler or two.

Fun in the water

Took a few attempts but we finally got there:

Synchronised Handstands

Anchorage was ok in the N/NE conditions. Not too much roll from the swell.

Saturday 8th

The swell must have changed direction, because the morning wasn’t that comfortable so we were out of there pretty quickly.

Back to Salamander Bay to anchor.

Didn’t leave the boat.

Sunday 9th

Kristie had booked on to go diving with Feet First Dive, as they were heading out to Broughton Island.

They depart from “The Anchorage” marina which is just at the end of the bay where we anchored.

We left Kristina in charge (Emma asleep) while I ran Kristie over to the fuel dock in the tender.

Ready to go see diving.. cold, green, rocks, urchins...

It was a much quicker trip back to Lazuli with just myself in the tender :)

Morning on devices before I convinced the girls to head into the beach for a swim.

It was low tide, so swimming wasn’t great. And it was a long way to get the boat back in the water with just the girls to help :)

I pulled, the girls pushed

Got the call that Kristie was on the way in just as we were packing up and showering.

Dropped the girls at Lazuli then left to pickup the diver.

Back onboard we filled up the dive tanks and relaxed with Sips ‘n dips.

The Bauer made short work of the two tanks Kristie used

Some of Kristie’s photos from the dive:

Grey Nurse Shark - not as big or as friendly as the ones in QLD

Port Jackson Shark - the shark eggs we find on the beach are from these ones:

Port Jackson Shark

And a few eels about:

Nice Moray Eel shot!

Treated ourselves to Bacon and Eggs for dinner (it’s a hit with the girls!).

Monday 10th

We needed to fill up some water and get a few groceries today.

There is a public pontoon/dock in the marina that isn’t entirely clear on the usage. We pulled up and filled up water.

Kristie and I set off - I had some deliveries at the Post Office, and Kristie getting food.

I got back and was then politely informed the ferry from Tea Gardens would be here and needing this spot in 5min.
So, with just the girls on board we cast off and got out of the way and hung out in the channel until Kristie was ready.

Earlier we had considered getting fuel as well, but it wasn’t urgent. However, the fuel dock in the marina was now the best place to pickup Kristie.
Kristina did a good job throwing the line to Kristie, and we got tided up and fuel easily enough.

After leaving there we thought we’d head over to Jimmy’s Beach.

However, not long after the wind picked up from the SW. We ended up getting 25-30kts and rain. This wasn’t the place to be!

Up anchor and motored through the gale to Dutchies, and thankfully there was a free mooring.

Tuesday 11th

The dolphins swam past regularly

School and work.

The weather eventually calmed down and by the afternoon it was beach weather.

The SUP has many uses

We had a late swim, then Kristie took off to go get Fish ‘n chips for dinner. Expensive and not that great (compared to our favourite Morgans).

Nice place for a bit to eat

The girls declared that after gorging themselves on the Fish ‘n chips that they needed to go for a walk.
They took themselves off down the end of beach and back.

Beach time

Always need more photos of Lazuli in the golden hour

We were treated to a nice moonrise!
Moonrise over Port Stephens

The following is Emma’s review of Dutchies Beach:

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We went to Dutchies beach to have a swim.
Mum paddled the rest of us took the tender.
When we got to the beach it was really shallow.
Daddy and Kristina played some cricket, sometimes I joined in.
After that Mum came back and we had a swim.
Next it was time for dinner.
Mummy went to get fish and chips. It was delicious!

Wednesday 12th

The weather today was good to get out to Broughton Island. With the light winds coming from the North, it was motoring all the way.

There are no moorings on the southern side, so we dropped anchor in Coal Shaft Bay and had the place to ourselves.

Coal Shaft Bay looking in

It wasn’t long before another boat showed up and dropped anchor on the otherside of the bay.

Afternoon swim and some fishing.

Girls enjoyed exploring the beach!

The girls loved the cave.. Kristina found some shark eggs that'd been washed up in there

I almost landed a flathead that would have been a keeper, but it spat out the lure while I was getting the net ready (rookie mistake :(

Thursday 13th

School and some work, then morning swim. Kristie had read that there were penguins on the other side of the island so was keen to get across and have a look.

It was hard not to take photos!

The maps show there are walking tracks, but from our bay they weren’t that obvious.

There was a rope leading straight up the cliff, so I took that and went for a wonder to check out the tracks and options.

Rope was there to haul yourself to the top

There was a track from the top of the rope around to the cliff, joining a more used path from there.

View from the cliffs half way along the bay

You can camp here.

There was no way the girls were going to climb up that, so I had a look at the track down our end and eventually found a very overgrown way through.

Looking out from the cave.

Back to the boat for lunch and to get walking cloths/shoes on.

We all did the climb up, falling through numerous mutton-bird-nests on the walk.

Off up the walking track

The path was overgrown in places.

It felt like bush bashing going across the top

The island isn’t that big, only 500m across or so at the narrower point where the walking track is.

We enjoyed the walk along the beach, and exploring the northern section for signs of penguins. Kristie found a few trails and likely spots.
Hopefully we’ll get back to the north side when we sail north and see if we can seem them at night.

Lots of kelp washed up on the north beach

Would be ok in a Southerly breeze and swell

Back across the island and to Lazuli.

Kristina made up a poem about the walk as we were walking back:

Kristina's poem about the walk

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We've had snacks to keep us going,
And lots of breaks and rests.
Lots of family bonding time,
Hiking is the best.

We've seen some lovely things,
Checked out some penguin nests.
Explored some giant rocks,
Hiking is the best.

Lots of animals to find,
It's like a big fun quest.
Lots of green scenery,
Hiking is the best.

Lot of Mutton Bird holes,
Be careful don't step in their nests.
Through the tangles mess we go,
Hiking is the best.

Sister keeps on whinging,
Parents urge us on.
I am having lots of fun,
Too bad the day is gone.

The following is Emma’s story about the Cave on Broughton Island:

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When we visited Broughton Island we found a big Cave.
On the boat, we looked over to the beach and saw it.
The next day went to the beach for a play and explored.
We walk around some rocks and found the cave.
First I thought it was dark and spooky.
Kristina then found two shark eggs.
She released them in the ocean.

Friday 14th

Valentines Day.

No school as Kristie was off to dive at Looking Glass this morning!

You can get a jet ski between the rocks

I dropped the anchor and waited for her (bluetooth speak for some tunes).

Enjoyed the solo dive

Other than cold green water and rocks, there were a few other things down there:

Nudibranch

And another Moray:

Another Moray

Back to the boat and then a swim at the beach.

Cannonball

Kristina is getting good with the bat and ball

We would sail back to Port Stephens today as the wind and conditions weren’t going to great to be on Broughton or to be sailing north.

We had 15kts+ from the NE, so we just had the headsail out and comfortably cruising along at 6-7kts.

Wasn’t long before we were back inside and fighting against the tide (it fair rips out of the bay!).

Dropped anchor back in Salamander Bay (feeling like it’s our home at the moment!).

Lots of opportunities for sunset photos on Lazuli!

Saturday 15th

After our “big sail” yesterday we needed another “rest day”.

Fair bit of wind anyway, so wasn’t nice beach weather.

Didn’t get off the boat.

Sunday 16th

We needed to do some shopping, mostly for some cloths for the girls.

The Salamander Bay shopping centre is about a 20min walk from the beach, so tender in, chain to tree and off we went.

Spent a while in Kmart choosing cloths and some shoes for Emma, then even longer for the girls to decide what they wanted to spend some pocket money on.

Lunch in the food court and then smallish shop at Woolies.

By the time we walked back (loaded down with shopping) it was low tide and windy. Nobody was keen for swimming!

Monday 17th

Windy and a little cold, so no reason to leave the boat.

Girls got their school done, I got in a full day of work.

Tuesday 18th

School + Work.

We moved to Nelson Bay to be closer to shops and laundry.

Dropped anchor as all 3 moorings were taken.

We put the tender in and went into the beach for a swim. Wasn’t long before the boat on the mooring near us left, so Kristie and I zoomed back to grab it for ourselves.

Seemed colder than the other bays, maybe more ocean water flushes in here?

With that done we had more of a swim, before Kristie went off to do the laundry, and I went to the playground with the girls.

Hanging out at the playground waiting for washing to be done.

Got in some more work when back on the boat.

Sunset over the marina

Wednesday 19th

Wasn’t the best nights sleep. Quite a bit of swell, and boat chop (being right next to the exit of the marina!).

Girls did school work, then we all went in to do a BIG grocery shop.

We each had our backpacks full as well as 6 extra bags. We did get 20 of the current minecraft collectable cubs (aka extra-stuff-we-don’t-need-on-Lazuli!).

We had lunch, and eventually Kristie spotted the cat at Dutchies leaving the mooring. Given the grass is always greener we left ours to get that.

Turns out Dutchies isn’t as well protected in the winds/conditions we were having! However, the beach is better and less boat chop.

We were enjoying an afternoon swim, until Kristina stood on a baby stingray (we think baby as there wasn’t much of a wound).

Back to the boat to clean it up and leave in hot water for a while.

Kristie called the NSW health service, so we’ll go see a GP tomorrow morning.

The following is Kristina’s recount of “The Stingray Sting”:

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The stingray sting

Yesterday afternoon we decided to take a trip to duchies beach for a final swim at Port Stephens.
The water was kind of clear but all the same it was a little bit cold.
I was splashing in the water but no one else wanted to splash with me.
Not even Emma! So I was heading to the shore to make a sand castle when I stepped on something a bit leathery.
I was wondering what it was but then a sharp pain started up on the side of my foot.

I started crying and I couldn’t see what I had stepped on.
Mum, Dad and Emma rushed over to see what was going on.
I couldn’t move as my foot was too sore to walk on so Dad picked me up and walked me over to the tender.
Once my foot was out of the water it started bleeding really badly.
Every one else packed up our things to get ready to go back to Lazuli while I on the other hand was sitting down a crying.

When we were back on Lazuli we cleaned my foot and put pressure on it with a paper towel to keep it clean.
While Emma was holding down the paper towel I was still crying, Mum was on the phone with a nurse and dad was getting a bucket of hot water ready to put my foot in.
My foot went in and the water felt a bit to hot so we cooled it down with some cold water.

After soaking my foot in the water for one and a half hours it was ready to be taken out.
Then Mum dried it of with more paper towel and a hand towel.
Some ointment was put on to keep it from getting infected and now I have to keep it elevated and higher then my hart.
Later today we will go to the doctors to double check that it’s fine.

Thursday 20th

We had a bit of wind and chop last night, so it was nice to wake up to flat water and a reasonably still boat!

The girls did school work, I finished off my week, then we got in the tender to head to the doctors.

No luck with Uber, but the local taxi driver was good value.

Kristina’s wound checked out ok, so off to get sushi for lunch and then a quick Woolies trip.

The lovely lass at the checkout asked the girls if they were missing any of the collectables, then handed us 20 pack… Happy girls.

1min wait for an Uber to get back to Dutchies, then onto the boat to stow everything and get ready for the trip out to Broughton Island.

We stopped via the marina to fill up both water and fuel. We’d probably used 20L since we last filled up before our previous trip to Broughton.

With only 3knts wind, we motored all the way out, passing many game fishing boats heading back into port.

The northern bay was nicely sheltered from the SE swell, and the one lone mooring was free. We’re sitting in 3-4m depth tucked in close to the rocks offering good protection.

It seemed we were really close to the rocks!

Just at sunset we had a storm roll though. Glad to be hooked up to a mooring. Gusting 25 and lots of rain.

Sadly condition weren’t good enough for us to go spying on penguins.

Girls in bed, quick shower off the back of the boat.

I think we’re done with Port Stephens.

We stayed a LOT longer than anticipated, but such is life when you’re dependent on nice weather.

There was plenty more we could have done in PS.. we didn’t get down to Lemon Tree, and Tea Gardens is a bit to shallow for us.
The ideal boat in this area is shallow draft and no mast!

Tomorrow we head for Camden Haven / Laurieton, and from there Port Macquarie.

Friday 21st

It rained a fair bit of the night, and the wind was relentless. As well as all the other boat/wind noises, we’d get the occasional “twang” as a Mutton bird collided with our mast/rigging!

Early start. 5am wake up got get us, the boat, and girls ready for a big day.

Off the mooring at 6am before it was really light. We still had the infill on and kept it on as the rain was due shortly.

We had the sails out for about 30min before the wind dropped off.

Passing by the Lighthouse at Seal Rocks

When the wind did come up, it wasn’t that strong, and more or less on the nose.

Heading north

The wind eventually came up two hours out from Camden Haven and I enjoyed the nice sail, but it eventually dropped to give us a final 30min motor to the bar crossing.

Perpendicular Point

Even though we were halfway through the outgoing tide, it was only a small tide change the not much swell so the crossing wasn’t so bad.

Laurieton River on the way in

Slow motor though the river to drop anchor across from the Services Club. Bacon and Eggs for dinner tonight, but we’ll head there for dinner tomorrow!

Big day done.