Day 256 to 266 - Orpheus Island to Fitzroy Island

Tuesday 26th August - Magnetic Island

It’s finally time to say goodbye to Maggie.

We were up at 6am for a 6:30am departure, motoring towards Orpheus Island.

Cya later Maggie, it's been great

There wasn’t any wind, so motoring the entire way.

We enjoyed watching a pod of dolphins and a whale on the way north.

Quick lunch after we grabbed a mooring. There are a few moorings around this area.
Two yellow (10m - too ‘small’ for us) just at Yanks Jetty, and some blue and green just around the corner to the north.
These two were taken so we had to grab one a bit further away to the north.

Tender down, wetsuits on, and off to Yanks Jetty for snorkeling, fish feeding, jumping off the jetty.
The coral at the jetty isn’t much chop, but there are plenty of fish who were most interested in the bread we took along :)

Convenient jetty to tie up to and go for a swim

Nice clear water and lots of fish

The girls did some jumping off the jetty, and made good use of the lifting ladder (only Kristie managed to get her fingers in the wrong spot!).

Emma doing her thing, plenty fish about. Water clarity not the best.

We swam into the beach to do some exploring. There’s a little lookout with a short ladder to climb up.

Exploring on the rocks

Up at the lookout

Two cats (> 10m!) had come in and grabbed the two yellow moorings. One couple was at the jetty having a swim and a beer.
We had a good chat with them before we got back in the tender and back to Lazuli.

Kristina’s recount about Yanks Jetty

After we finally left Magnetic island we sailed on up to Orpheus Island.
There was still a couple of hours left in the day, so we got all our swimming stuff and tendered over to Yanks Jetty.
There was a big pontoon with spots to tie you tender, tables to eat at, and two ladders to get in and out of the water.

I was the first one to get wet, diving into the water see how cold it was. It was freezing at first but the more I stayed in there the warmer it got.
Everyone else got in then we really started to see how much fish and coral there really was.
Luckily we had brought some of our stale bread which all the fish still liked.

I quickly got bored of that but when I was heading up I realised how much fun the ladder was.
If you put pressure on it the ladder would go down, then when you got off the ladder would rocket up!
So while mum, dad, and Emma were snorkeling elsewhere I kept on jumping off in all sorts of wacky ways then using the ladder to get back up.

I loved it, but eventually we all got cold so we tendered back to Lazuli.

Emma’s recount about Yanks Jetty

We anchored at Orpheus Island near the resort so we hopped in our tender and motored over to the jetty so we could snorkel.
When we tied up our tender all the fish came assuming we had food.
We threw some tiny bits of bread at the fish then jumped in with them!
So fun.

On the beach there was a tiny tiny walk to a small lookout.
From the lookout we could see all of the small shells on the sand.

Wednesday 27th

We had been waiting longer at Maggie to get the best weather and tides for exploring Zoe Falls. Today was the day we wanted!

Up early to motor across to Zoe Bay; up at 6am leaving at 6:30am.
Kristie took the helm while I got in some work hours.

I had the lure out; we hooked something but lost it pulling in :(
Changed lures, then hooked some seaweed :(

Stunning scenery coming into Zoe Bay

2:40hr later, just after 9am, we dropped anchor in Zoe Bay in about 4m of water.

Hard to do the beauty justice with a mere phone camera

Tender down, and we all got in quickly to head to the beach. Pulled the tender up, keeping an eye out for big lizards.

Lizard free beach

We had about a 1km walk to bottom of the waterfall.

Bare foot all the way

Nice easy walk

Stopped for a quick photo (taken by a hiker who’d just finished his swim), and then crossed the creek to scramble up to the top.

Our favourite waterfall

There's a rope in place to haul yourself up the rocks at the top

The hiker had beaten us up, but he didn’t stay long so we had the place to ourselves.

The “infinity pools” at the top were amazing. We spent some time in these, then got dry and explored the creek a bit.

It doesn't get much better than this!

Infinity Pools

Walked back down for a swim at the bottom.

Emma on the way back down

We weren’t alone this time; there were 4 adults from two Cats also at the bottom.
We had a chat with them, one of them pointed out that all these fish in here were “Jungle Perch”.
We didn’t have any bread with us, but it turns out they like corn chips just as much.

Two of them got in the water, but we had the rope swing all to ourselves :D

We all had fun. Kristina jumped off the rocks to start with, then the rope swing.

Emma was keen as

Good performance posture from Kristina - pointed feet - her dance teacher would be proud

Fun

Kristie had been taking photos of us, then came over for her swing. Nice jump in, then realised that the prescription sunnies she was wearing were no longer on her head!

The girls swam back out with their googles, and Kristina quickly spotted them at the bottom.
Too deep for the girls, so Kristie borrowed their googles and went down to get them!

We swam over to the waterfall. There was a nice rock/ledge to sit/stand on and get a good back massage from the water.
The water coming down was also warmer thanks to the hot rocks/sun it was coming down from up top.

We could have spent ages at the falls, it was stunning

Had some snacks, then back to Lazuli.

Too rolly/bumpy to spend the night here, so sailed back to Pioneer Bay (Orpheus Island) and grabbed a mooring there.

Yachts are not the easiest to fish off

Caught a baby shark with the lure. Flake for dinner.

Kristina’s recount about Zoe Falls

We’ve been to lots of cool places on Lazuli but my new favourite is Zoe Falls on Hinchenbrook Island.
The walk there had lots of rocks and a creek that you could cross using stepping stones.
The walk to the falls took about 25min and it hurt my feet a tiny bit.
Although it was definitely worth it when you got to that amazing place.

The first thing that I noticed was all the little jungle perch sitting in tht water, practically begging to be fed.
Of course, me and Emma didn’t let them down. There were several adults that were already there but most of them were just leaving.

As we swapped places with them one of the men mentioned a rope swing on the other side of the plunge pool.
If you know me well, then you would have guessed that I explored around the edge to find it.
If so, you’re right. That’s exactly what I did. When I got to it, I called over to mum and dad so they could come over and help.
At first I was nervous that it wouldn’t hold me but after dad had a go, I felt carefree!
It was amazing and I had a great time at Zoe Falls which is why I was sad when mum said we might never ever be able to go there again.

Emma’s recount about Zoe Falls

We motored Lazuli over to Hinchenbrook for the Zoe Falls walk.
There was crocodiles in the nearby creek so we had to pull the tender up quickly.
The walk to the top was about 1km long, and the path was very uneven.

Eventually we reached the waterfall at the bottom, but we had to go to the top.
When we reached the top we got on our togs (no wetsuits) then we went for a dip in the infinity pool.
It was then I realised how cold it was in the water but I still had fun at the top.

Soon it was time to go back to the little lake below.
It was still just as cold at the bottom but way bigger so I could move around!
There was also a rope swing going into the water.

The waterfall was so fun!

Thursday 28th

Work and School.

We had hoped to go to visit the Orpheus Island Research Station (my sister Jess had been there a few times over the last year or two).
However, when Kristie finally managed to get through to them they said they were too busy (60+ guests) so they weren’t doing tours this week :(
(maybe on the way back south?)

Also, the giant clam garden is dead, so we didn’t really bother snorkeling.

We moved down to Hazard Bay thinking we could get off the boat, but the wind was 20knts from the north instead of the 7knts NE it was supposed to be.
It got quite uncomfortable, so we motored back to Pioneer Bay and got a mooring there, which was much nicer for us all.

Friday 29th

My work calendar had me with 4hrs of meeting today (2hrs in the morning, 2hrs after lunch).
We had worked out the maybe the best option would be to head back to Zoe Falls and the girls could spend the morning there,
and then during my afternoon meeting we’d motor back towards Lucinda to go inside Hinchenbrook Island.

So another early start, up at 6am for 6:30am trip to Zoe Bay.

Tender down, dropped the girls into the beach and watch them walk off.

Got back to the boat, checked email… morning meeting cancelled!!

I couldn’t contact the girls, and couldn’t move the tender by myself. I was a bit annoyed.

Thankfully managed to get the afternoon meeting rescheduled and done in the morning.

The three girls had lots of fun back at the falls.

Girls out having fun

Kristie had carried in their mermaid tails and wetsuits.

Mermaid at the falls

Another Mermaid at the falls

More fun on the rope swing, and feeding the fish.

I finished my meeting, and went in to pick them up.

Me picking the girls up after their morning at the falls.

Lunch, and then we motored to Lucinda while I worked a bit more.

Slow trip in across the shallow bits, then following the channel up around the island.

Lure out but no bites.

Lovely river cruise.

We stopped at Haycock Island for the night.

Stunning place. No getting off the boat though.

There was one other yacht there.

Sip’s ‘n dips. Then midges gate crashed our afternoon/evening!

Stunning place. Until the midges turned up!

Lit a few mozzie coils, then we all abandoned Kristie and went downstairs to escape the onslaught.

Saturday 30th

More midges in the morning.

Lovely conditions in the morning

Lazy start, off at 10am to continue motoring around Hinchenbrook.
Had the lure out the back and hooked something. Got it all the way to the boat then it came free as we were trying to get it in the net :(
Not exactly sure what it was, but it looked like a salmon.

We were aiming to spend the night anchored off Goold Island.

About 0.5nm out I started winding in the lure getting ready to drop anchor. Had it halfway in before it took off on me!

Good fight, and finally got it alongside. It hooked up good and proper, and this time Kristie got it in the net and we got it onboard.

Turned out to be a nice 85cm Spanish Mackerel. So good.

My first Spaniard: 85cm

With it onboard we turned around and got back to where we needed to anchor.

Fish preparation (which is code for ‘splattering Lazuli with blood and guts’).

Boat cleaning.

We were treated to a stunning sunset

Fish and chips for dinner.

Delicious

Kristina declared it was the best fish she’d ever had, and would only accept Spanish Mackerel in the future.

After dinner, we were upstairs and could hear something nearby breathing loudly. We assume it was a Dugong.
We had our spotlights out, but never saw it :(

Sunday 31st

I’d been neglecting some of my regular boat jobs and suffered the consequences.
While Kristina was using the front toilet, it overflowed :|

Off to Dunk Island today. Our friends Stuart and Sanne (Vanetta) were already there after experiencing their worst night ever anchored at Zoe Bay!

We had our anchor up and sailing away from Goold at 10:45am.

It was only 15nm to Dunk, bit of a slow sail but weren’t in any rush.

Anchored at Dunk, dropping anchor not too far from Vanetta.

We had Stuart and Sanne over to Lazuli for nibbles followed by Spanish Mackerel for dinner.
Sanne brought over a salad and some delicious GF apple crumble. Boat friends are awesome.

Monday 1st

Kristie was up at 3am as it was a bit rolly. The rest of us up at normal time.

Work and School.

Kriste had a quick nap while class was underway. The girls didn’t mind :)

Vanetta were off to the beach but swung past and dropped in a tray of delicious boat baked “Kanelsnegle” (Danish - “cinnamon snails”).
Something like this I guess: https://scandinaviancookbook.com/kanelsnegle-danish-cinnamon-rolls/

Sanne (who is Danish) had baked them that night we first met them at Middle Percy Island at the start of June.

Full of gluten, so the girls and I (to be fair mostly me!) had Kristie’s share :)

Worse places to be!

After lunch had swim at the beach and play on the mat.

It's been a while since the mat got any use

Vanetta joined us and shared their coconut. Girls were still not much of a fan of coconut.

When the swim was over we made good use of the public shower facilities.

Tuesday 2nd

School and work.

Early lunch.

More work.

Off the boat to head into the beach to go walk up Mount Kootaloo.
The track starts at the end of the beach, and you can do a loop up to the summit and around the bottom of Dunk Island.

Nice walk through the forest

There were great views from the top.

Panorama looking back towards the mainland

My girls, looking south backwards Goold and Hinchenbrook

Also the remains of a radar / listening station that was in use briefly during the 2nd world war.

History Lesson - check!

Remains from the radar station

The walk down was quicker/easier.

Kristina and I powered on ahead

Kristie had posted on a few of the FB sailing pages to see if anyone wanted to meet up this afternoon for drinks/catch up on the beach.

One or two boats replied in the affirmative.

Running a bit behind on the walk, we rushed back to Lazuli, showered on the back, and then tender back to the beach.
Only Jason and Kym from Argo ended up coming in.
We’d seen Argo on AIS for a while, so was good to finally catch up with them.

Another sunset over the water.

Back to Lazuli in the dark.

Wednesday 3rd

Woke up to rain.

Work and school with more rain.

While we had ok weather (other than rain) for the next few days, it was going to get worse.
Our plan was to be in Cairns, with a day or two at Fitzroy Island beforehand.

Anchor up at 10:15am. I had figured we could stay at Russel Island instead of going all the way to Fiztroy.

We (I) hadn’t decided if we were sailing or motoring. We undid the rope that holds the boom still, but left the infill up.
Wasn’t long before a few waves had us rocking about and the infill tore. :|

Took the damaged infill off and started sailing. I made a call to see if we could get a new one made in Cairns.

As always, we had the lure out. We hooked something, but it came off pretty quickly.

Lure back out. Hooked another fish. This one stayed on until we got it along side.
Saw it was a Mac Tuna and decided it could go back into the water :)

Dropped the sails.

I had a meeting; Kristie put the lure back out.

Hooked another fish. This one took off. Whatever it was, it was much bigger than the tuna we had just hooked.

At various points it just took off and all I could do was to get Kristie to turn Lazuli around and follow it!

Eventually got the monster Spanish Mackerel alongside and I gave the rod to Kristie while I got the gaff hook out (no way it would have gone in the net!).

Got it onboard and into the wheel well while we got stuff sorted.

By this time we were at Russell Island, and it wasn’t going to be suitable to stop for the night, which meant pressing on to Fitzroy.

With that decision made, Kristie took the wheel while I processed the fish.

Finally got the chance to measure it: 130cm. My record for a fish.

130cm, maybe 20kg.  Stoked.

My 55cm filleting table was not built for this sort of work! A Beneteau First is also not the ideal fishing/filleting platform!

I got it all filleted and deboned, and ended up with a fridge full of delicious fish!

I cooked dinner (not fish) while underway and before it got dark.

We got to Fitzroy around 8pm; we did a few circles looking for somewhere to drop anchor.

Vanetta were on mooring but there weren’t any free ones, so we ended up near the port channel marker.

Kristina’s recount about Dunk Island

We spent a few days exploring Dunk Island. There was a perfect spot to swim over near the spit of the island.
The water was clear with a sandy bottom and it got very deep very quickly.
This meant it was the perfect spot for us to bring back out big foam mat.
When you’re playing on the mat there is lots of things you can do.
My favourite thing is to make up little tumbling routines then backflip into the water.

On the second day we were there we didn’t do much. There was a lookout walk we did but it was kind of rushed as mum had organised some sundowners with another boat.
There were drinks chips and cheese for all of us to share. At first the sunset wasn’t very good, but then the colours really came out.

Emma’s recount about Dunk Island

We spent a few days at Dunk Island to explore and play.
On the first day we went for a swim near the spit.
It was nice clear water without any rocks, so it was the perfect spot for the swimming mat.
I liked doing front flips off the mat into the water!

On day 2 we headed over to shore for our walk up Mt Kootaloo.
The walk was a bit steep, very hot, and a tiny bit uneven (but the workers were fixing that).
When we started the walk some people came down and said “There is a excavator up ahead”. I was like how is there an ‘escalator’ up ahead, but I misheard them.
When we finally made it to the top the view was great, looking over all the Family Islands.

Thursday 4th

A few boats left early that morning, so we quickly moved to one of the moorings that were now free.

Work and school.

Kristie jumped off the back and swam in towards shore for a snorkel by herself.

She ended up getting a lift back to Lazuli with Sanne. We gifted them a bag of Spanish Mackerel (I had processed the fish and we ended up with 6 large clipsal bags).

There was another cat in the bay with a kid onboard.
We took the tender over to try and meet ROAM1, but we were too slow and by the time we got there they were pulling up anchor and then steaming off to Cairns and all we could do was wave.

Lunch.

We all geared up for a family snorkel. We spent ages in the water. There were a few decent sized clams, and a very friendly turtle that the girls loved.

Emma doing her diving down to touch things

Kristina loves turtles just (almost) as much as Kristie

Lots of cool clams throughout the bay here

Gotta get the nemo photos

Kristina spends more time in the mermaid tail than snorkeling fins

Emma was having fun taking Kristie’s dive camera down to take photos of the clam and turtles.

One of the photos Emma swam down and took

I dropped the girls back when they were cold and then came back to Kristie and we kept snorkeling for a bit longer.

Mackerel for dinner. So delicious.

Friday 5th

As I had an afternoon meeting, we took the morning to go for a walk.

There’s a loop walk up to the Lighthouse, then the Summit and back down.

It was hard to get the photo to show just how steep the road up was

It was HOT, and lots of spots on the track had no breeze at all.
Many skittle stops were required.

We walked out to the lighthouse, then back up to the summit.

Good views from the lighthouse and summit.

Fords up the top

The walk down was easy, with some stunning views back towards Cairns and Lazuli.

Stunning place to be.

Down the bottom it was time for our ice cream. Walked down to Foxy’s Bar.

We ended up getting lunch there first, and then the ice cream :)

Lunch and Ice cream as reward for the big walk

Started to head back to Lazuli for my afternoon work meeting.

Gotta have a swing

Also gotta have ice cream

It gets busy here

Kristie took off for another snorkel from the boat, asking me to come pick her up when my meeting was done.

Back on the boat Kristie got changed and the two of us snuck back to Foxy’s Bar for happy hour cocktails.

Making the most of happy hour

Whilst there it started spitting, so messaged the girls to ask them close up the windows and take cushions down.
Kristina went above and beyond and covered the generator with a tarp to keep it dry.

It was still running… so it ended up melting a bit of the tarp.

I messaged to thank them for being so thoughtful, and also ask her to turn it off!

We took hot chips and delicious mango and avo salad back to the boat to go with another round of spanish mackerel for dinner (2 bags down - 3 still left)

Back to the boat just before more rain came, we had time to put the sides up and then cook dinner.

Tomorrow we’re off to Cairns. We need to get the infill replaced, pick up a few deliveries from the Post Office, and resupply (and hide from the weather).